FLOATING in the western Gulf of Siam like a tropical, bonsai Tasmania, Koh Samui is only 25km long by 21km wide, but it draws one million visitors each year and there are 9000 aircraft arrivals. If you once visited Samui as a beach-hopping backpacker, be prepared to witness change with a mega C. Numerous subdivision-with-seaview estates, bristling with expat villas, have made northeast Samui look like the home suburb you may just have left. But beyond these "villa people" and the long-established tourist zones, much of the island remains snoozy.
John Borthwick
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