Thursday 31 July 2008

White Nights with the White Thai


Philip Game shares a glimpse of rural life in northern Vietnam.

Unlike their mother, Ba Vuong's five daughters never need submit to the ordeal of teeth blackening. The White Thai matriarch seems sanguine about the past as she tallies the dollars flowing in from foreign guests who sleep over in her solidly built longhouse amid the rice paddies near Mai Chau, 120 kilometres south-west of Hanoi. Times have certainly changed since Ho Chi Minh's Viet Minh turned the tables on French aspirations, more than 50 years ago.

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